Replica Tissot PR516 Chronograph
Tissot summons the PR516 Chrono, which was popular in the 1960s and 1970s, to the present in 2024. PR516, which announced its return last February, is equipped with a classic manual chronograph and the nostalgic retro look of the original, targeting watch lovers who are thirsty for the old days.
PR516 was first introduced in 1965. It was first released in four versions depending on manual/automatic and with or without date, and the chronograph came out three years later. Each model has established its own style by matching the barrel-shaped case with a unique metal bracelet (or leather strap) with continuous punching details. Swiss designer Lucien Gurtner (1928-2004) is said to have taken inspiration from racing gloves and led related designs. Names like code names have deep meaning. PR means ‘Particularly Robust’ or ‘Precision & Resistance’, and 516 refers to the ‘16th’ model of the ‘5th’ waterproof collection manufactured by Tissot. Thanks to its unique style, the PR516 was also popular with many celebrities in the 1960s and 1970s. In particular, Peruvian rally legend Henry Bradley (1940-2016) displayed the name of the watch on his Ferrari car purely out of affection for the PR516. Legendary British actor Roger Moore (1927-2017) wore PR516 and played James Bond in the movie ‘007: Live and Let Die (1973).’ Of course, he loved watches and wore several products from other brands in the movie.
Today, the PR516 is better known as PRS516, with the initials ‘Sporty’ added to its name. Currently, PRS516 has inherited the original racing DNA while developing a diverse lineup with a more modern design. On the other hand, the newly returned PR516 pursues a retro style that overlaps with the racing chronograph released in 1968. The stable tri-compact structure of the 3-6-9 counter inherits the original bezel that displayed the pulsometer and tachymeter simultaneously, while the 30-minute counter displays 0 to emphasize the 5 minutes before the start of the race (motor racing or sailing). Even the small details that marked the ~5-minute section in blue were accurately reproduced. The barrel-shaped case, which is perfect for a sports watch, is also the same.
The size of the steel case is 41mm in diameter and 13.1mm thick. It is larger than the original (diameter 36mm). The overall surface of the case is finished with brushed processing to preserve the grain, the same as the original, but unlike before, the edges are shaved once and then polished to a glossy finish. That’s why the new case looks more three-dimensional than the original. Water resistance specification is 100m. The front glass has a concave dome shape that is frequently seen in newtro replicas watches these days, further enhancing the retro vibe of the dial.
The face on the black background is exactly like the original, but there are some differences here and there. The logo has been changed to a modern design that indicates the year of birth of the brand, and the product name (PR516) underneath it has disappeared. It may be a bit disappointing, but it also makes it look cleaner. The chronograph hands vary in color from red to cheerful orange. The ‘T’ shaped design of the rear end of the chronograph second hand is also new. The square baton hands and rectangular appliqué hour indices are not much different from the original. Each surface is coated with Superluminova luminous material that glows blue in the dark. It is said that the same material was painted on the white part of the bezel.
On the back of the dial beats a manual chronograph (A05.291) that enthusiasts will appreciate. Of course, you can admire him through the transparent sapphire crystal glass. There is a clear difference from sister brands that use similar manual chronographs and mask them with solid backs. The movement base is Valju 7753. The new engine is based on this, removing the automatic winding mechanism including the rotor, and installing a separate bridge with the replica Tissot logo on top. The barrel was also designed with a new structure, greatly increasing the power reserve to 68 hours. The balance spring uses Nivachron™, following the trend of the Swatch Group these days. Nivachron, jointly developed by Swatch Group and Audemars Piguet, is a titanium alloy and is known to be resistant to magnetism, temperature changes, and shock.
The strap is a metal bracelet that fits snugly into the barrel-shaped case. As with the case, the outer edges of both links are finished with polished processing, with the center being brushed. A quick change system is also included inside, allowing you to easily attach and detach the bracelet without any tools. Overall, it seems to focus on modern perfection rather than nostalgia for the original. Based on the metal bracelet option, the price of the PR516 chronograph mechanical is 2.6 million won.
There is also the PR516 Chronograph Quartz available at a more reasonable price. The unique bezel and barrel design are the same as those of a manual chronograph, but since a quartz movement is used, the dial is bound to be different. It has a typical inverted triangle design for quartz chronographs, with a 0.1-second counter at 2 o’clock, a small second at 6 o’clock, and a 30-minute counter at 10 o’clock. The case size is 40mm in diameter and 11.9mm in thickness, making it smaller and thinner than a manual chronograph. Water resistance specifications are the same at 100m.
PR516 Chronograph Quartz is released in three lines with different dial colors and materials. The basic black and blue dial models are priced at KRW 700,000 each, and the combination version with a black dial base and yellow gold PVD coating on the bracelet’s center link and bezel ring is priced at KRW 770,000.